Efficacy of a New Tonic Containing Urea, Lactate, Polidocanol, and Glycyrrhiza inflata Root Extract in the Treatment of a Dry, Itchy, and Subclinically Inflamed Scalp

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Dry, itchy and inflamed scalp conditions are common and often associated with diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. To improve these symptoms, we investigated the efficacy of a new tonic containing the active ingredients urea, lactate, polidocanol, and Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, containing licochalcone A. STUDY DESIGN/METHODS: 30 subjects with dry and itchy scalp conditions underwent a randomized half-head study for 4 weeks, applying the leave-on tonic three times a week on one side of the scalp. Tonic effects on skin hydration, itching, lipids, microinflammation, and substantivity of tonic compounds were determined using corneometry, middle-infrared spectroscopy, direct analysis in real-time mass spectrometry, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Volunteers performed a self-assessment; changes in scalp condition were documented by in vivo microscopy. RESULTS: After tonic treatment, scalp moisture was significantly increased, whereas scalp itching and tautness were significantly reduced. Results also demonstrated a high substantivity of urea and lactate on the scalp, an increase in triglyceride, and a decrease in free fatty acid levels. The amount of total lipids was unchanged. Analyses of scalp wash-ups verified a significant reduction in important pro-inflammatory markers. CONCLUSION: Due to the actives urea, lactate, polidocanol, and the anti-inflammatory licochalcone A, the new scalp tonic exhibited excellent performance in alleviating scalp dryness, itching, microinflammation, and in normalizing disturbances of scalp lipids.